Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Kigali Memorial Centre, part 2

[Caution: tough reading ahead]

This post is dedicated to Mark.

I was pretty much okay, shedding a few tears here and there, until the children’s room. In a small corner in the second golden room, I couldn’t help but cry, really cry. I thought about my own children, about all of those children and babies who were murdered, and the more I tried to fight the tears back, the more intense they became, so I quietly, alone, cried until I was done for while.

I tried to focus on each child, each set of eyes, all the way through.

As I was leaving the building, a few steps after the end of the children’s exhibit, I heard wailing coming from the first floor. I didn’t know Rwandan schoolchildren were on a tour there, but I fled as quickly and quietly as I could outside the building, down the stairs to the terraces of mass graves. As I was descending, I really questioned whether I can do this research, this work with survivors. There is so much pain.

It felt like I was opening, being pulled in half, and that I would break apart. I remember this feeling.

As I concentrated on that pain, the abominable loss, the fear that I might be unable to do the work, the shame of inadequacy, and I let myself cry hard, I started to notice that even though I felt like I would separate into parts, something was holding. It took awhile. The parts seemed to want to come apart, but they held at the base.

Slowly, slowly, it seemed to me to be like a flower, the base of which held not only two halves, but many petals—an electrifying red. And when those petals opened, oh god.

After more time and more tears, I slowly noticed that this flower didn’t have just a base; it was attached to a strong stem; then a branch came into focus, and eventually, to my amazement, a tree with an enormous, broad, reassuring trunk. When I could gaze into the distance, I could see that I was in the middle of many other trees, some also blossoming with enormous, bright flowers.

I kept this visualization throughout the next few hours as I walked the grounds and thought about how to prepare myself to help survivors write their stories next summer. Today, in those gardens, I couldn’t help but notice how life insists on just being.

After awhile, I heard more schoolchildren wailing, and instead of avoiding them, I walked into the lobby and waited for them to come out, supported by friends or staff. One was sobbing, calling for her mother and father; one boy was sniffling but I could see he needed to cry. There was nothing I could do, except be calm, dig way down with my toes into the roots of the tree.

I think about the possibility—inevitability—of deep emotion at my writing retreats next summer. Even for those who are not in active trauma, for those who have developed coping skills, sometimes all you can feel is the opening, the breaking apart. It’s all too easy to forget the tree, the roots, the forest of other trees. When this connection is lost, it seems to help to have someone near who is calm, who is capable of blossoming, but is living at the roots.

My writing students taught me this very quickly. My friends have also helped me learn about this, this emotionally intimate connection.

But I don’t think that I would be able to do this work—and I will be able to do it—had it not been for the trauma I survived throughout the second five years of my life and the healing work during another five years in my thirties. Traumatologists often write that survivors can ultimately become grateful for their particular terror, the terror that changes everything. And I’ve known for a long time that I wouldn’t be who I am without my particular terrifying experiences, but grateful? No way.

Until now. Now I get it: I can do a good job here, can be effective, not only because I know how it feels to open and feel like I might break apart, but also because I’ve learned how to move from blossom to trunk to root to forest and back. And I know how writing can help create a map for that journey.

3 comments:

Michael said...

jen! not sure whetheer i should say thank you for your vivid writing, but thanks anyway, i definately knew visiting the memeorial would be your most painful part, yet the most "growth provoking". In my room here in the US, i just cried alone in my room- i felt so heavy with tears- i visualised that child pleading for life! i then pulled ou one of the movies i brought with me "Sometimes in April". i watched it, cried enough, convinced my self to stop crying and embarked on my assignments! Yes, you brought me back home! There are happening that we probably will never comprehend, but will always try! Go ahead!

Enjoy the beauty, the warmth and people in Kigali=open yourself to all knds of experiences, and as Americans say, HAVE FUN! I am proud you have gotten in so fast that you can even travel in the "dark"

Ken said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Ken said...

Somehow in trying to add a question mark where needed in my comment I deleted it. Here goes again. This time I'll be less grammatically uptight.

You wrote: "As I was descending, I really questioned whether I can do this research, this work with survivors. There is so much pain."

My sense is that such questioning will be a constant companion for you. You have chosen to enter into a depth of reality that most of us in the West are able to avoid because of the luck of our birth. When we do approach such reality it is often for the purpose of stimulation, like going to see a violent movie. But those are cardboard experiences compared to what you are seeing.

Still, you cannot help but have feelings and emotions that at times will want to drive you from that reality. You should probably welcome your doubt as a necessary friend. Hold dialogues with that doubt.

You may also find other contradictory personae in your head and need to talk with them. There were times I was not proud of myself in Kenya as a Peace Corps worker, when I was the ugly American, or at least the impatient one. I felt angry, smug, and alienated. At other times I felt as integrated and gentle as the flower you describe. I felt the beauty and warmth that Mike describes.

Yes, the experience I had in the Peace Corps amplified both the good and bad emotions--my time there gave both God and the Devil louder voices.

You might talk with the Western aid workers about how they deal with conflicting emotions that run counter to their desired persona as care givers and nurturers. How do they deal with apathy and other debilitating feelings? Do they ever share these darker feelings with their Rwandan companions, or is it just among fellow expatriots at refuges like the Bourbon Hotel you describe? (I think that was the name).

The same questions could be asked of a wealthy doctor who is ministering to a diabetic, while at the same time recoiling at the mottled and swollen foot, resentful and frightened of the poverty and lifestyle that led to it. Even Jesus grew weary of the poor at times.