Practicalities

July 7, 2008

Lots of you are wondering about some of the more practical matters regarding a month in Rwanda.

First, let me say that I am back in my Rwandan home, Auberge La Caverne, after a couple of nights at a hotel up the street. Apparently the Auberge double-booked my room and so I moved. (BTW, I thought that “auberge” meant eggplant, but a quick check in my handy French-English dictionary clarifies that eggplant is “aubergine;” auberge is “inn.” Strange etymological coincidence.)

The other room was where my electrical near-fiasco occurred. The nearby bar was really loud, and I just couldn’t sleep there, so I’m happy to be back. When I told Julius of Never Again that the Auberge wanted to move me out of my room again later this month, that did not sit well at all, and after some phone conversations, I was told that I will be moving, but only to another room here at the Auberge. It pays to have someone look after your practical matters here.

So this room has two double beds with intact, ample mosquito netting, a large shelf to accommodate suitcases, a little table between the beds, a phone (for the front desk to call you up), a little TV that picks up three channels: Spanish weather, international business news, and Rwandan news. There is also a big attached bathroom with a large shower area, a sink that doesn’t leak, and a toilet that flushes (a definite improvement over the other room). It helps to have basic knowledge of plumbing, preferably toilets, when you travel. And at home, for that matter. I have yet, though, to be able to get hot water in this nice room. That was the only redeeming quality of the other place. Oh well. I’ll pretend I’m at the dorms for May Seminar (haha).

The water throughout Rwanda is iffy, a highly technical term. I’ve seen floaters and sinkers in it only once, but otherwise I’ve been using my SteriPen and things have been fine. I have to say that it looks like something else in its case, though, so I definitely don’t whip it out in public.
Come to think of it, I still haven’t figured out if drinking water on the street is polite. Smoking or eating food on the street is considered vulgar and slovenly, but I’m not sure about swigging water. Something to ask Julius. The thing I worried about and knew I’d do eventually actually happened last night: as I was getting ready to brush my teeth, I stuck my toothbrush under the tap. I’d been so careful about using only purified water, but damnit! I just didn’t think. Quickly, I dried the toothbrush on my favorite grey t-shirt which I hoped had magical protective qualities, took a swig of Pepto just to be sure, and then proceeded with purified water. No troubles 24 hours later (knock on wood). Oh, and BTW, when liquid Pepto travels, it gets gloopy, like Pepto pudding. Ick.

Other practicallities? Oh yes—travelling alone at night. I left Never Again at 7 p.m. tonight after an exciting, productive day. But that meant that I had to find my way to the mini-bus stop in the dark. And it was the first time I took that route. But luckily, I’m awake, and my spatial sense has kicked back in, so I made it just fine. I was carrying a little flashlight (thanks, Thomas!) in my purse, but couldn’t find it, so I sort of stumbled along. Lots of chuckling from the neighbors, but that’s fair.

The Nyamirambo neighborhood is busy by day, but at night, wow! Literally, the sidewalks are filled with people, and not just here and there, but everywhere! All the little shops have lights in them and people are socializing.

Because Rwanda is almost on the equator, day and night are just about equal. But as I was riding the bus back to mumuji (town center), I had the same feeling that I had when I was about seven and that I recognize in my younger son as we drive through town at night: All the lights! All the activity!

More practicalities? Most Westerners don’t wear make-up here, unless they are tourists. Those of you who know me know that I struggle with issues about make-up. Frankly, I can’t stand it, so I wear as little of it as possible to fit the stereotype of a woman who has access. Here, I wear make-up or not, with no difference in perception.

Oh, and the weather. It’s very pleasant here, what I guess would be the 80s. There are lots of hills to traverse and lots of people crowding into small spaces, so even people who don’t sweat much sweat a lot here. There was rain on Sunday and it was a bit cooler, maybe the low 70s. Rwandans broke out their sweaters. Really. And the moto drivers were in heavy jackets.

Send me more queries, and I’ll try to answer them. And yes, I’ll blog more about clothing. And food. Later.